When on a bike adventure trip your bike does not work, you have neither adventure nor trip. So priority 1 now is to get the BMW sorted out. The day was spent a) finding the route out of Fez, ignoring all mobile hustling would-be guides and b) getting a variable performance bike via Rabat to Casablanca, home of the only true BMW bike hospital, so I am being advised. By chance I meet Mikou again at a filling station – small world. He was on the way to pick up his new BMW bike after inspecting mine while it was parked with him. To do so, he had washed the GS, the owner not actually appreciating the gesture even if the intention by my new friend had been good. A GS simply has to be full of mud and dust, just like a donkey or a camel.

Variable performance of the bike got me to Casablanca and a hopelessly overpriced hotel was once again the solution. Anyway, Katherine had given me the coordinates for BMW, a great help in these crazy cities.